THE INDUSTRY.BEAUTY – April 2025 – Antony Hawman  Link to full article

If you'd have asked me a week ago what exosomes are, I would have said "huh?" but twice in the same week, I've had conversations with founders of brands who've educated me on the benefits of this powerhouse skincare ingredient. So, there must be something to it...

Being hailed as the next holy grail skincare ingredient; exosomes are a regenerative ingredient that act as messengers between cells. They carry information - like proteins and genetic material - from one cell to another, helping skin to repair and adapt to products much faster.

"Exosomes are extracellular vesicles which are tiny bubbles released from stem cells. They act as building blocks, repair mechanisms and messengers, carrying genetic information and proteins to cells to perform different functions," explains regenerative medicine expert Tunc Tiryaki.

"They are active biological communicators that go beyond surface-level benefits. Exosomes directly influence cellular behaviour by delivering targeted instructions. Their ability to pass through the skin and blood-brain barrier sets them apart in both efficacy and potential."

Originally derived from medical science to help speed up wound healing, exosomes are increasingly being used in skincare to penetrate the skin barrier and deliver regenerative signals that help repair tissue, reduce inflammation and stimulate collagen and elastin production, leading to smoother, firmer and more youthful-looking skin.

"Exosomes are a bit of a multitasker. They are especially beneficial for ageing skin in boosting collagen, reducing fine lines and improving elasticity. They also calm inflammation, making them great for post-acne scarring or rosacea-prone skin. Plus, they can brighten pigmentation over time," adds skincare specialist Dr Ellie Sateei.

With all these benefits, you might think skincare brands using this ingredient are always set to charge a fortune. Well, not necessarily - as shown by two brands that have recently landed on my desk, each at different ends of the market.

Dr Ivy Skincare was founded by Dr Ivona Igerc, a renowned expert in aesthetic medicine, who has specialised in facial rejuvenation and non-invasive treatments for over 25 years. The brand offers a technically advanced range of aesthetic skin treatment products, including an exosome rejuvenation home kit and LED light and laser skincare systems, which promise to "deliver scientifically-advanced, medically driven and safe results, well beyond those of traditional home skincare serums and energy devices"...